Tuning Information & Instructions

Congratulations on your purchase and we look forward to working with you!

To get started here's what we need:

If using EcuTek & laptop/dongle, we need the dongle ID (displayed in ProECU, NOT printed on the dongle). If using phoneflash, go to the app, select us as the tuner, and then "send vehicle information to tuner" so we can see you in the cloud and send you files.
If using Versatuner we need the VIN, please copy and paste the digits instead of sending us an image or use the mail icon, this helps reduce typos.

Either option we will need your ROM ID. In EcuTek this is found by selecting Program ECU -> Program ECU -> Read Vehicle Registration Details. Capture and send a screenshot ensuring we can see the compatible ROMs. For Versatuner, this is displayed under your info when you "Identify". If you are using phoneflash, we will get this information when you "send vehicle information to tuner."

If you also purchased flash points for EcuTek we may need your Registration Code. This cycles every 24h or so and is found under help-> info -> feature and license information in ProECU. Please copy and paste, do not send images if possible. (Dongle version only).

We will need your vehicle make/mode/transmission and FULL engine mods list, particularly MAF size, injectors, MAP sensor, and boost etc...

A few tidbits that will help you save some time, please read fully about common issues below, it will save us a great deal of time and ensure you have no issues during the process:

BRZ/FR-S/GT86:

If you are boosted you MUST secure the evap line under the intake manifold. It will pop off after 7 psi. Please search online and you will find tons of how-to's and horror stories of those that do not.
DI control box MUST be properly grounded with the 3 bolts.
After you flash your cams must "relearn" before you can drive it/datalog. Ensure it is fully warmed up and "VVT Enabled" states "1" on the logging window. Do not bother logging if it is not "1". It helps to blip the throttle a bit.

NC MX5:

If you had your intake manifold off ensure your PCV hose is still securely connected. If one PCV hose is out of the intake circuit (I.E. leaving the valve cover open or to a catch can), so must be the other one in the same fashion.
Make sure your MAF is facing correctly, the connector should face the fuse box.
ITBs: Make sure to properly calibrate/balance the throttles. This is critical before we even get started.
Turbo/SC: You must use Denso ITV22 or ITV24 (or equivalent) spark plugs. You will misfire otherwise. P0300 codes/flashing CEL at high loads are somewhat "normal" but ensuring you have good plugs, good coil connectors, good injector connectors will help reduce the issue.

GTR:

Normal procedure is the 2-3 miles of mixed driving with a WOT run or two in 3rd or 4th to redline on the same log, keep it safe. Also if you get a check engine light that doesn't trigger a code, this is likely one of our failsafes. See here: https://ecutek.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/SUPPORT/pages/1670479893/GT-R+RaceROM+Failsafes

A90 Supra/B58 BMW:

To flash you will need to enter diagnostics mode. This is done by hitting the start button three times quickly with the foot off the brake.

For the WOT runs you will need to make sure you have traction, 3rd often slips, if you have room for 4th gear the use that. For AWD models 3rd is fine. We do not want the traction control activating during logging of the WOT run. 

ALL:

Overboost protection is designed to clue you in that something is wrong. It does NOT work on stock MAP sensors. It does NOT work if you stay on the throttle after it kicks in.

YOU are responsible for ensuring that boost is where you want it to be, and AFR is not sustained > 12.5 under boost on pump gas. We cannot see anything until after the fact. Meaning if there is an issue with the setup, then it will be too late when we see the log. EcuTek tools are incredibly powerful and you can set up dash screens and warnings. Use them, this is amazing technology and will ensure you do not have issues down the road. A few seconds of <4 degrees knock and 12.5 AFRs are no big deal if its for a few short seconds, but if you are doing 10+ second long pulls to redline at 100+ MPH, there's not much we can do.

Poor connections: If you find the logging dropping out mid run, you likely have loose female pins on the obd2 port. It's ok, it is a natural part of aging. Many of these cars are past their prime. But you can tighten things up by utilizing a cheap obd2 extension or by bending the module pins out slightly, by 1mm or so using a coin. This helps them make positive contact, but do not overdo it since you can break the pins.

Logging Procedure:

We like to keep it simple. 2-3 miles of mixed driving with 2-3 WOT runs in 2nd or 3rd. ONE log only please. Do not zip. This is for NA applications and FI once we get the basics dialed in. For the first log with an FI setup, please limit to just a mile or two and no more than 2-3 psi for no more than 3-4 seconds at a time. This way if there are any issues with the setup, we can spot them before any damage is done. Once we tell you to go to redline at WOT, then you can follow the 2-3 procedure above. For NA setups, you are highly unlikely to do any damage, so you can proceed with the standard logging procedure.

We are truly excited to work on every car and help make things happen for you! But we need you to be our eyes and ears while we dial in your car. Following this process (developed over twenty years) helps ensure that you have the smoothest experience with the least amount of issues.

Finally:

We are entering our 20th year of tuning commercially! This is a huge milestone and we have helped thousands of owners/cars get the tuning service needed. Please let us know if there's anything we need to improve, and if you get a moment please leave a review so that others know to find us. This helps keep costs down long term, and helps us support existing customers. Please do not attribute to any one person--there is a close knit team of folks who make this happen every day.